Bhakris are lightweight and easy to pack, and they last several days, making them ideal food for long-distance travel. Koli fishermen pack dozens of bhakris when they venture for deep sea fishing, as they may be unable to cook at sea for days.
A portion of the dough is taken and flattened into a round shape by pressing it against a flat surface. The pressing is done entirely by hand, which takes considerable skill. In contrast to how rotis are made in other parts of India, a rolling pin is not used. The ideal bhakri should be of uniform size and thickness, which may take years of hands-on experience to perfect.
Once fully cooked, the bhakri is removed from the tava and served hot. It can be enjoyed plain or accompanied by chutney, pickle, curry, or vegetables. On average, a woman at the stall makes 45 to 50 bhakris in a day. Because the stall has no seating facility, customers pack the bhakri in newspapers and carry them home.
The skill of making bhakris is passed down through generations of Kolis, from mother to daughter and other female family members, who usually do the cooking at home. During marriage negotiations, the worthiness of a Koli bride is judged by her ability to prepare the perfect round bhakri.
The quaint fishing villages at Madh have a significant Koli presence. This roadside stall at Madh is run by Urmila Mokal and a group of Koli women. They make and sell fresh rice rotis, known as tandalachi bhakri. Bhakri is a simple yet nutritious food that is popular among the Koli community, often served as a main course or accompaniment to various dishes.
The base ingredient for making tandalachi bhakri is rice flour, which is made from a special variety of rice. The ladies prepare the flour at home and carry it in containers to the stall where they make the dough fresh.
Urmila, who works at the stall, thoroughly kneads the dough to ensure that the rice flour is evenly mixed with water. Kneading helps to develop the gluten in the rice flour, which gives the bhakri its texture and makes the dough supple and soft, which allows it to stretch.