Once fully cooked, the bhakri is removed from the tava and served hot. It can be enjoyed plain or accompanied by chutney, pickle, curry, or vegetables. On average, a woman at the stall makes 45 to 50 bhakris in a day. Because the stall has no seating facility, customers pack the bhakri in newspapers and carry them home.
The skill of making bhakris is passed down through generations of Kolis, from mother to daughter and other female family members, who usually do the cooking at home. During marriage negotiations, the worthiness of a Koli bride is judged by her ability to prepare the perfect round bhakri.
The quaint fishing villages at Madh have a significant Koli presence. This roadside stall at Madh is run by Urmila Mokal and a group of Koli women. They make and sell fresh rice rotis, known as tandalachi bhakri. Bhakri is a simple yet nutritious food that is popular among the Koli community, often served as a main course or accompaniment to various dishes.
The base ingredient for making tandalachi bhakri is rice flour, which is made from a special variety of rice. The ladies prepare the flour at home and carry it in containers to the stall where they make the dough fresh.
Urmila, who works at the stall, thoroughly kneads the dough to ensure that the rice flour is evenly mixed with water. Kneading helps to develop the gluten in the rice flour, which gives the bhakri its texture and makes the dough supple and soft, which allows it to stretch.
Once the dough is kneaded, it is divided into small, round portions. Each portion will be used to make an individual bhakri. Next, the dough is shaped into flat discs by turning it in a circular motion. Simultaneously, Urmila removes excess dough by pressing down on it with the palms of her hands.
The dough is prepared by adding boiling water to the flour and mixing it thoroughly. The dough should be firm and pliable. Salt may be added to enhance the flavour, although this is optional.
Located along the western coastline of Mumbai’s northern suburbs, Madh Island is bound by the Arabian Sea to the west and Malad Creek to the east, which separates it from Versova. Commuters travelling between Madh and Versova use ferry services operating across Malad Creek. The first ferry starts at 5 am. Ferries run every 15 minutes, and the journey takes about five minutes. The ride fare is ₹3.00.
Koli women are actively involved in various economic activities related to fishing and maritime livelihoods and play a central role in maintaining the household in the absence of male family members who are away at sea. In addition to taking care of their household affairs, they run small businesses that add to the family income.