Bottle masala gets its quirky name because it was traditionally stored in empty beer bottles. The airtight bottles preserved the original aroma and flavour of the masala and kept out moisture.
Stacks of containers and bags sent for milling are marked with family names for identification. Once the spices are fully powdered, they are kept at the mill to be collected in a day or two. Each family has a unique mix of spices, which must be pounded separately so that the flavours and aromas do not mix.
Wheat is the only ingredient that is not a spice. It helps thicken the curry that the masala is used to cook. Some households might choose to use chana dal instead of wheat. Similar to the preparation of the spices, the dal is also dried and roasted.
The East Indian community masala is prepared differently from the method used in the Goan community, wherein the spices are pounded fresh without having been roasted. Drying and roasting are time-consuming processes, and there is no shortcut to achieving the same flavours without them. In the old days, family members came together to prepare the masala, a process that took place over several days. This fostered a sense of collaboration, thereby reinforcing the bonds that tie the East Indian community together.
Preparing the ideal mix requires patience, training, and skill. The skill of the making lies in accurately measuring the right proportion of each spice, which can affect the pungency and heat of the blend.
Each family uses different types of chillies to make the base. Kashmiri chillies are a staple in many dishes because of their deep red hue and ability to temper the heat without overpowering the dish. Other pungent chillies, including Resham Patti, Bedki, Bird’s Eye, and Sankeshwari, can also be used to make the base.
Once the spices are dried until crispy, each is roasted to a specific temperature, ranging from mild to high. The oils released during this roasting process enhance the aroma and flavour, giving it a more complex and robust taste.
Spices are laid out for drying in the courtyard of Marthahil, a heritage home at Vasai that has been the residence of an East Indian family for more than 150 years. The masala-making season usually lasts from March until May. Earlier, drying spices in the open was a common sight in East Indian neighbourhoods, though the practice is declining as people nowadays opt to buy masala from the market.
Spices purchased at wholesale markets are sun-dried for two to three days to remove moisture. This usually happens once a year in the summer. After the rainy season ends in October, some households may decide to make another batch of masala.