Ramnath Keny had his wedding photograph taken with his wife in a Mumbai studio. Vintage photos like this offer insight into the customs and traditions of the Koli community as they modernize and adapt to new trends and changing fashion.
Image courtesy: Ramnath Keny
Players prepare for a game of kabaddi near the once-famous Santoshi Mata Temple, now replaced by a huge multi-story building. Kandivli and Malad, a suburb south of Kandivli, are likely the rival kabaddi teams.
Image courtesy: Ramnath Keny
Ramnath Damodar Keny, a 70-year-old inhabitant of Kandivli village, has spent his entire life in this locality. Five generations of his family have lived in the same house.
Ranjan Dattaram Tarabai Mhatre is a member of the Pathare Prabhu community. Alongside the Kolis, Bhandaris, and Agri communities, the Pathare Prabhus are among Mumbai’s early inhabitants. They migrated from the Saurashtra region in Gujarat to the Konkan coast in the 12th or 13th century CE, eventually settling in Mumbai.
According to Ramnath Keny, this photo likely captures a tribal ritual, possibly reflecting the Kolis community’s tribal origins, which underscore their status as early inhabitants of the Mumbai region.
Image courtesy: Ramnath Keny
The ambada is a low bun typically positioned at the nape of the neck. This is a simple and elegant hairstyle for Koli women. During festivals and celebrations, they often adorn the bun with flowers, typically jasmine, and gold ornaments to add a decorative touch.
For additional coverage and to ensure it stays in place while working, women typically drape the Lugra saree by taking the pallu (the loose end of the saree) over the shoulder and tucking it at the waist in the back or bringing it around to the front.
The khopa (classic bun) is one of the most traditional hairstyles for Koli women. It involves gathering the hair at the back of the head and twisting it into a neat bun. As is customary in the region, they adorn their hair buns with scented and colourful flowers.
The front part of the surka is embroidered with maritime motifs such as fish, crabs, and boats. The surka is a long piece of cloth wrapped around the waist and legs, tied in a way that gives a triangular shape at the front. Traditionally, Koli fishermen wore a short dhoti known as langoti for sea fishing, reserving the surka for festivals and special occasions.